what hitch are you using with a 2015 Ford F150?

[camperboy]

I don't see any auto sliders that will work. What are you using?

 

[Cate&Rob]

I looked at the auto sliders but chose the simplicity of the manual slider.

I posted this a while ago on another thread . . . I have a manual Reese 16K slider and use it all the time, for a few reasons in addition to avoiding cab/camper contact. I hitch in the aft maneuver position because I have a clear view of the hitch through the back window of my crew cab. In the aft position, I can open the tailgate even if the truck is not exactly aligned to the camper. With the hitch pushed back, I have a lot more room to get at the front storage compartment. And lastly, it seems to me that the camper reacts more quickly to steering inputs when backing with the pin being 10" behind the rear axle centreline rather than when it is centered over the axle, in the tow position.

Rob

 

[camperboy]

Are the mounting rails above the bed or below?
Thanks

 

[Cate&Rob]

Are the mounting rails above the bed or below?
Thanks

Rails are above the bed. I don't think anybody makes an under the bed attachment for an F150.

Rob

 

[camperboy]

Thanks. I haven't been able to find any under the bed rails.

 

[Cate&Rob]

I was kind of "bothered" about having rails in the bed. But, they really are not a problem. In fact, when loading plywood or similar, they provide really good slide surfaces to keep material from damaging the bed surface. Reese offers custom F150 attachment brackets that go on the outside of the truck frame rails. A little more money, but far more robust than the "universal" brackets and really easy to install.

Rob

 

[camperboy]

Thanks. How is the locking jaw on the Reese? Once latched is there any safety to keep it latched? On my pullrite even if the handle retracts it still may not be latched. It has done that to me twice but luckily I didn't tear up anything

Also do you happen to know what the Reese and rails weigh?

Thanks

 

[Cate&Rob]

Thanks. How is the locking jaw on the Reese? Once latched is there any safety to keep it latched? On my pullrite even if the handle retracts it still may not be latched. It has done that to me twice but luckily I didn't tear up anything

Also do you happen to know what the Reese and rails weigh?

Thanks

I have the Reese Titan Hitch with cast head and interlocking teeth on the pin capture. There is an indicator pin that pops out if the pin is correctly engaged and the latch handle can be locked in the closed position. The slider mechanism is round tube and moves easily even if the ground is not level.
http://www.reeseprod.com/products/f...-fifth-wheel/lHed9XozUzH2SGxGQmBrcMeTEENU8ezQ

It is not a light hitch . . . I would guess with rails and brackets probably close to 200 lbs. The head and base come apart easily for removing from the truck in two pieces. Probably about 75 lbs each.

Rob

 

[camperboy]

looks like 200 lbs from the website. Then the rails an additional 61 lbs and Reese at the moment doesn't make rails specific for the aluminum body F150s. I am not sure these rails will work as you can't put steel in direct contact with aluminum or corrosion will occur

 

[Cate&Rob]

I am not sure these rails will work as you can't put steel in direct contact with aluminum or corrosion will occur

That would be an interesting question to ask directly to Ford. There are aluminum/steel interfaces all over the new trucks. They must have a plan for this. Both OEM and for the addition of aftermarket accessories.

Rob

Edit: See https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q-222.pdf

 

[Second Chance]

Pulling any fifth wheel with a 1/2 truck I would be concerned about the weight of the hitch (it's not hard to hit the rear axle limit with pin weight). The Andersen Ultimate hitch systems weigh about 50# plus the rails and brackets - and it mounts on industry standard rails (there is also a model that mounts on a turnover goose-neck ball). We use the Andersen with our 337RLS and are really happy with it (as is Poppy on this same forum).

Rob

 

[camperboy]

Pulling any fifth wheel with a 1/2 truck I would be concerned about the weight of the hitch (it's not hard to hit the rear axle limit with pin weight). The Andersen Ultimate hitch systems weigh about 50# plus the rails and brackets - and it mounts on industry standard rails (there is also a model that mounts on a turnover goose-neck ball). We use the Andersen with our 337RLS and are really happy with it (as is Poppy on this same forum).

Rob

My only concern with the Anderson is the turning radius. I am ordering a 6.5' bed and either a 303rls or 27rl and don't want to have to worry about hitting the cab as I back up

 

[Second Chance]

My only concern with the Anderson is the turning radius. I am ordering a 6.5' bed and either a 303rls or 27rl and don't want to have to worry about hitting the cab as I back up

My truck is a crew cab with 6.5' bed. I've never had a problem with cab clearance - can't get close to tight enough in a full-stop turn going forward. Backing up, I can get to about 85 - 87 degrees. It all depends on how you set the Andersen up.

Rob

 

[Cate&Rob]

It would certainly be nice to save the hitch weight . . . and the Andersen configuration certainly has its strong supporters. In addition to the lack of a slider, there is more precision required to connect (you have to place the cup down over the ball like a bumper pull) and some jurisdictions require safety chains. I know that Anderson says "no safety chains required" . . . but they also make safety chain attachment plates for those that believe this is still a cup and ball connection.

Rob

 

[camperboy]

My truck is a crew cab with 6.5' bed. I've never had a problem with cab clearance - can't get close to tight enough in a full-stop turn going forward. Backing up, I can get to about 85 - 87 degrees. It all depends on how you set the Andersen up.

Rob

So you have yours set up with the ball closer to the tailgate?

 

[camperboy]

It would certainly be nice to save the hitch weight . . . and the Andersen configuration certainly has its strong supporters. In addition to the lack of a slider, there is more precision required to connect (you have to place the cup down over the ball like a bumper pull) and some jurisdictions require safety chains. I know that Anderson says "no safety chains required" . . . but they also make safety chain attachment plates for those that believe this is still a cup and ball connection.

Rob

I have been towing goosenecks for near 30 years and like the idea of safety chains. If the trailer happens to come loose you are still going to tear your truck up but at least the trailer will not disconnect completely from the truck which might be a complete disaster

 

[Second Chance]

So you have yours set up with the ball closer to the tailgate?

Yes - mine is set up with the ball closer to the tailgate (it can be installed either way). This was not done for cab clearance but so the lower portion of the pin box didn't hit the side rails of the bed during tight turns (turning the pin box adapter around effectively shortens the radius of the pin box as it turns). As for camperboy's comment about safety chains, I have them installed and use them every time. They're only required in one state for this hitch, as far as I know, but they are an extra margin of safety.

Rob

 

[Cate&Rob]

I have been towing goosenecks for near 30 years and like the idea of safety chains. If the trailer happens to come loose you are still going to tear your truck up but at least the trailer will not disconnect completely from the truck which might be a complete disaster

If you wanted to go in the "gooseneck" direction, you could use the LCI goose box directly to a gooseneck ball. Etrailer does show an underbed gooseneck hitch for the 2015 F150. 42 lbs.

Rob

 

[Second Chance]

If you wanted to go in the "gooseneck" direction, you could use the LCI goose box directly to a gooseneck ball. Etrailer does show an underbed gooseneck hitch for the 2015 F150. 42 lbs.

Rob

Other Rob,

Lippert has gone back and forth on frame warranty when using goose-neck adapters. Last thing I read was that they would not honor the frame warranty if a goose-neck adapter was used.

Rob

 

[Cate&Rob]

Other Rob,

Lippert has gone back and forth on frame warranty when using goose-neck adapters. Last thing I read was that they would not honor the frame warranty if a goose-neck adapter was used.

Rob

From this article (admittedly dated 2011) http://www.prnewswire.com/news-rele...y-cequent-performance-products-127893378.html . . .

"The Goose Box is a great solution for fifth-wheel RV users who prefer to use gooseneck hitches," said Jason Lippert, CEO of Lippert Components. "We are very pleased with the results of the thorough testing of the Goose Box, which demonstrates that it is compatible with our RV frame. As a result, the proper installation of a Goose Box pin box will be acceptable under our RV frame warranty."