Wheel bearings.

[anderstd3]

I purchased a new BHS 367 in February. Currently have about 3500 miles of travel on it. Are the wheel bearing packable or sealed and how often would you do this.


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[Hoopy Frood]

They are most likely open-type bearings that have to be packed. Personally I would check them now, to insure they are well greased and there are no nicks
or gouges on the bearing and/or seal areas. If they are in good shape grease-wise, and in nick-free condition, I would check them every few years. Maybe
after 20,000 miles or so. Or you could pull them and repack them when you do your other vehicle wheels.

 

[Second Chance]

They are open tapered bearings requiring cleaning and repacking. Replace the inner seals each time. DO NOT use the Zerk fitting on the hub - that's there for marine applications and RV bearings should be cleaned, inspected and repacked at regular intervals (usually 10k miles or annually).

Rob

 

[Calbar]

They are open tapered bearings requiring cleaning and repacking. Replace the inner seals each time (I replace the outer seals each time, too). DO NOT use the Zerk fitting on the hub - that's there for marine applications and RV bearings should be cleaned, inspected and repacked at regular intervals (usually 10k miles or annually).

Rob

Hi Rob. Not sure what outer seals you are referencing. I only have inner seals on my axles. On the outer end I only have the flat washer, castle nut and grease cap. Maybe you mean the grease cap.

Another Rob

 

[Second Chance]

Hi Rob. Not sure what outer seals you are referencing. I only have inner seals on my axles. On the outer end I only have the flat washer, castle nut and grease cap. Maybe you mean the grease cap.

Another Rob

I misspoke - you are correct! (And the grease cap does not need replacing.)

Rob

 

[powerscol]

I just repacked my bearings at 3 years and roughly 2500 miles. 1 was pristine, but the three others needed repacking. If you pull the axle information off the axle tube and email Dexter, they will send you a build sheet on what you have with all the part numbers.

Having that you can shop bearings and seals. If replacing a bearing you need to replace the race too so get the sets. I went with Timkin brand bearing and seals. Summit Racing has the best pricing I could find and very fast shipping

I had my done by a local trailer place (not my dealer) but next time I will do it myself.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

The main thing with repacking wheel bearings is to make sure you get the, misnamed, pre-load set correctly. Many issues with wheel bearings occur
right after a brake/wheel bearing maintenance job due to bearings set too tight or too loose, with too tight generally the culprit.

 

[powerscol]

The main thing with repacking wheel bearings is to make sure you get the, misnamed, pre-load set correctly. Many issues with wheel bearings occur
right after a brake/wheel bearing maintenance job due to bearings set too tight or too loose, with too tight generally the culprit.

Dexter has a how to video that shows the correct way (50 ft/lbs load, then back off to finger tight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnH-h3W9XvI

However a warning - there are literally hundreds of other how-to videos and most are wrong.

 

[Gronk1]

I would check them now. I did mine soon after purchase. The bearings were fine but two brake assemblies were toast...on one the adjuster fell on the ground when I pulled the hub. The other was missing most of the brake material.
The delivery drivers use the trailer brakes almost exclusively to the dealers.

I've had 5th wheels for 20 years, & these were the first shoes I've had to replace.

 

[Calbar]

I misspoke - you are correct! (And the grease cap does not need replacing.)

Rob

Thanks Rob - I was wondering if I was missing something on a new axle.

Rob

 

[stan3718]

They are open tapered bearings requiring cleaning and repacking. Replace the inner seals each time (I replace the outer seals each time, too). DO NOT use the Zerk fitting on the hub - that's there for marine applications and RV bearings should be cleaned, inspected and repacked at regular intervals (usually 10k miles or annually).

Rob

Can not agree more with this! I purchased a gently used 29RS this year where someone used chassis grease at the zerk fitting which resulted in the rear seal failing on one. Grease ended up all over the brake shoes and hubs. Ended up replacing all of the backing plates with new brake kit, rear seals, and repacking the bearings; which looked brand new. Photos are after I cleaned them up. When I pulled the cap off, grease was oozing out.

 

[huntindog]

Can not agree more with this! I purchased a gently used 29RS this year where someone used chassis grease at the zerk fitting which resulted in the rear seal failing on one. Grease ended up all over the brake shoes and hubs. Ended up replacing all of the backing plates, rear seals, and repacking the bearings; which looked brand new. Photos are after I cleaned them up. When I pulled the cap off, grease was oozing out.

View attachment 36352View attachment 36353

You need to replace the shoes as well. You cannot get the grease out of the lining, The brakes will never be right once they have been "greased"

 

[stan3718]

You need to replace the shoes as well. You cannot get the grease out of the lining, The brakes will never be right once they have been "greased"

Should have been more clear. The backer plates where complete brake kit that I replaced. Replaced the four. My point with my post is an agreeance with post not using the zerk as a grease point.

 

[Dutchman2]

They are open tapered bearings requiring cleaning and repacking. Replace the inner seals each time (I replace the outer seals each time, too). DO NOT use the Zerk fitting on the hub - that's there for marine applications and RV bearings should be cleaned, inspected and repacked at regular intervals (usually 10k miles or annually).

Rob

Rob,
What is the detail/concern with using the zerk fitting? Is there a fear of pumping in debris or blowing out the inner seal? do you have a grease type recommendation? Will need to repack based on the mileage being discussed before our next trip.

Dutchman2

 

[Hoopy Frood]

Many people feel the zerk fitting on the axle is likely to cause problems with grease being forced past the seals. That won't happen unless the seals, or the seal area, is compromised, or you're using a powered grease gun. But OTOH, they aren't really needed as you don't need to add grease if you have a properly greased wheel bearing to begin with. Greased properly, and preload, a misnomer if ever there was one in this instance, is set correctly, wheel bearing should be good for several years before needing attention.

 

[Second Chance]

Rob,
What is the detail/concern with using the zerk fitting? Is there a fear of pumping in debris or blowing out the inner seal? do you have a grease type recommendation? Will need to repack based on the mileage being discussed before our next trip.

Dutchman2

This topic can be a bit controversial. I have personally seen greased brakes from the EZ-Lube fittings being used. As [MENTION=42104]Hoopy Frood[/MENTION] stated, though, if the bearings were greased properly in the first place, there is no need to add grease. Using the Zerk fittings is not a substitute for cleaning and inspecting the bearings at regular intervals. Any good high-temp wheel bearing grease is fine - many like the Lucas Oil 10005 Red 'N' Tacky grease.

Rob

 

[Scott'n'Wendy]

Many people feel the zerk fitting on the axle is likely to cause problems with grease being forced past the seals. That won't happen unless the seals, or the seal area, is compromised, or you're using a powered grease gun. But OTOH, they aren't really needed as you don't need to add grease if you have a properly greased wheel bearing to begin with. Greased properly, and preload, a misnomer if ever there was one in this instance, is set correctly, wheel bearing should be good for several years before needing attention.

I think a lot of people just giver a few pumps without spinning the wheel at the same time as per instructions - causing the seal to pop.
But I agree with you completely. Properly greased and setup wheels do not need to be re-greased in between maintenance intervals. The interval being up to the owner. Dexter recommends yearly. I'm a every other year guy.

 

[pilotpip]

I think the cheap seals and grease these things come from the factory with is a big player. After seeing first hand the reduction in hub temps from OEM bearings and grease to timken bearings with Lucas red and tacky replacing the bearings will be one of the first things I do on my next trailer simply for peace of mind.

I think the issue people have with the ez-lube is they don't follow the instructions, and pack way too much grease in them. It has to go somewhere. A few squirts as you spin the wheel is all they need.

 

[Hoopy Frood]

FWIW, you can't really overgrease the EZ-Lube system, grease is pumped through the axle stub and out the opening where the grease zerk is located, so that is where the grease goes. If you use a pressurized grease gun you can have issues, but a regular grease gun shouldn't cause you any issues.

 

[Buckskin]

As mentioned above; do not use EZ Lube grease fittings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Did this on previous camper and grease bypassed rear seal. Grease destroyed brakes and had to replace 2 hubs. Learn from my bad experience.

Another bit of advice; repack wheel bearings when it is warm outside if possible; makes job a whole lot easier and grease move more freely when warm. Learned this from experience also.