Winter Camping

[DNestor]

I have a momentum and have wintered in SD. My unit has heat in the underbelly and heaters in the tanks. I used it down to about 10 degrees but when temps got below that I winterized it and stayed elsewhere. Have never had a problem.


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[adaycj]

As a person that has done cold weayher camping in MI I'd like to paint a different perspective. While agree that the "4" seasons is marketing, it is possible to use your unit in cold weather. This is particularly true if you can control when you use your TT as the forecast unfolds. I've had quite a few wonderful days camping in winter months that I'm glad I didn't miss. I also have had to cancel or modify my trips if the weather turned.

A few things I have done. I modded my furnace so it can run the blower on the thermostat based on temp. It is exactly for the reasons already discussed. I have used temperature probbes to monitor the temps. I have stick on tank heaters on all three tanks. I eventually added separate switches because they can be a waste of energy.

In addition I carry enough propylene glycol to winterize the lines if there is a surprise cold snap. This is also because the typical RV furnace isn't particularly reliable. A surprisingly small amount of antifreeze is needed to keep the grey and black tanks liquid if it comes to that.

I could go on and on (and already have), but it comes down to this. If you are willing to monitor a few things, and you are confident in your winterization process you can use your rig many more days out of the year than you think. It's not about fixing up the systems so they will tolerate the coldest and windiest days. It's about being ready to winterize. I can winterize my whole rig in about an hour, and undo the process in about the same time so that isn't stopping me from camping if I want to.

 

[ZuriHagel]

As a person that has done cold weayher camping in MI I'd like to paint a different perspective. While agree that the "4" seasons is marketing, it is possible to use your unit in cold weather. This is particularly true if you can control when you use your TT as the forecast unfolds. I've had quite a few wonderful days camping in winter months that I'm glad I didn't miss. I also have had to cancel or modify my trips if the weather turned.

A few things I have done. I modded my furnace so it can run the blower on the thermostat based on temp. It is exactly for the reasons already discussed. I have used temperature probbes to monitor the temps. I have stick on tank heaters on all three tanks. I eventually added separate switches because they can be a waste of energy.

In addition I carry enough propylene glycol to winterize the lines if there is a surprise cold snap. This is also because the typical RV furnace isn't particularly reliable. A surprisingly small amount of antifreeze is needed to keep the grey and black tanks liquid if it comes to that.

I could go on and on (and already have), but it comes down to this. If you are willing to monitor a few things, and you are confident in your winterization process you can use your rig many more days out of the year than you think. It's not about fixing up the systems so they will tolerate the coldest and windiest days. It's about being ready to winterize. I can winterize my whole rig in about an hour, and undo the process in about the same time so that isn't stopping me from camping if I want to.

I appreciate this post. I was able to use the camper in pretty cold temperatures. Nothing like MI or VT where I came from, but enough to test.

First learning - using the oil heater primary and the furnace to raise it a few degrees above that causes my furnace to cycle a few times a day and keeps just fine.

I got a heated water hose for next time instead of using the tank. I’ll report back how I like that. I have a small space heater in the cargo hold and that works well and keeps the bed warmer too.

I know about skirting but that’s a real PIA for 2-3 day stays. For out in my driveway I might put hay bales under the camper. I think that will insulate things real well.

As far as modifying the furnace to run the fan, Suburban said that will void the warranty. They also don’t like in-line fans to pull more air. How did you change it?

I was thinking about putting in a t-connection with a damper on the heater conduit to send heated cabin air down there using a separate electric forced air. Not too motivated to do this as we just don’t get enough cold but it’s on the list.

Thoughts on that?


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[jkwilson]

Straw or hay bales are a fire risk and attract mice. 2” foam board is easy to cut, light and can be attached to a simple wooden frame to make panels that slide into place and attached with tape, Velcro etc.. You can create a sealed space under the camper and can even run a heater under there to help. You can paint it with acrylic paint.

The furnace needs to run frequently to keep the plumbing warm if it’s really cold outside, especially without skirting. If it’s only freezing at night, you can run the electric during the day and then furnace at night. It’s pretty difficult to thaw plumbing at a campground if it freezes and temperatures remain below freezing.

 

[adaycj]

I appreciate this post. I was able to use the camper in pretty cold temperatures. Nothing like MI or VT where I came from, but enough to test.

First learning - using the oil heater primary and the furnace to raise it a few degrees above that causes my furnace to cycle a few times a day and keeps just fine.

I got a heated water hose for next time instead of using the tank. I’ll report back how I like that. I have a small space heater in the cargo hold and that works well and keeps the bed warmer too.

I know about skirting but that’s a real PIA for 2-3 day stays. For out in my driveway I might put hay bales under the camper. I think that will insulate things real well.

As far as modifying the furnace to run the fan, Suburban said that will void the warranty. They also don’t like in-line fans to pull more air. How did you change it?

I was thinking about putting in a t-connection with a damper on the heater conduit to send heated cabin air down there using a separate electric forced air. Not too motivated to do this as we just don’t get enough cold but it’s on the list.

Thoughts on that?


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Put simply, I added a switch that operates the blower in parallel with the control board. I believe you are correct in your statement that it would be a reason not to honor the warranty if I have furnace trouble. In addition there is another problem. The furnace blower not only circulates house air on one side, it circulates combustion air on the other. Since there is no fire it cools the heat exchanger, in turn cooling the air delivered to the ducts to some extent. There is a simple solution, but it is a safety concern.

Your T connection is a good idea, just make sure there is still adequate airflow from the furnace when it does run and the inline fan doesn't fight the furnace and stagnate flow. A completely separate duct that just heated the underneath would be ideal. Especially if it was easy to remove and stash when the winter camping is over.

I'm interested to hear how the heated hose works out.

 

[ZuriHagel]

Put simply, I added a switch that operates the blower in parallel with the control board. I believe you are correct in your statement that it would be a reason not to honor the warranty if I have furnace trouble. In addition there is another problem. The furnace blower not only circulates house air on one side, it circulates combustion air on the other. Since there is no fire it cools the heat exchanger, in turn cooling the air delivered to the ducts to some extent. There is a simple solution, but it is a safety concern.

Your T connection is a good idea, just make sure there is still adequate airflow from the furnace when it does run and the inline fan doesn't fight the furnace and stagnate flow. A completely separate duct that just heated the underneath would be ideal. Especially if it was easy to remove and stash when the winter camping is over.

I'm interested to hear how the heated hose works out.

I’ll let you know on the heated hose.


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[ExNihilo]

I know this post has taken a few twisters and turns.
Our rigs have some similarities- So four seasons is a gimmick.
My camper is very similar and I live in a fairly cold environment 25 degrees tonight.
1.) First off our coaches do not come from the factory with tank heaters ( I added them with heated valves)
Many have a temp sensor in them to only go on as needed (I also added an off switch for the whole system) If you really want to dig in I also have the tank heaters on my Lithium Battery (on the tounge)
2.) I do use a oil heater in the rig—be really sure it is set low enough to have the furnace blow heat in the basement of the rig (the four seasons thing is dependent on this)
3.) Some water in the fresh tank and pump on with the electronic heater for water. (You could do propane but I have plenty electric)
4.) You are gonna use propane or you will need to winterize.

I use mine four seasons all the time if its cold I use about 40 pounds of propane a week. With shore or generator power as well.

 

[Franktafl]

Do you leave your hot water heater running on propane?

 

[ExNihilo]

Do you leave your hot water heater running on propane?

Electric when it’s possible, propane when its not. The propane usage I mentioned was mostly propane.
Best regards I sourced switches on Amazon, Etrailer for tank and gate valve heating pads, wire at Home Depot.