Wiring Questions for Inverter Installation

Samohawk

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Joined
Jan 16, 2024
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11
I am planning on installing a Renogy 3000w inverter in my Reflection 324MBS 5th wheel soon and have most things mapped out, but was hoping others could share an opinion on a couple items.

I currently have two 230ah Litime batteries in parallel connected directly together, then out using the factory wiring to the trailer bus bar. As part of the install, I plan to move both batteries to a bus bar, then connect the bus bar to a Lynx distributor. Right now the plan is a 400a T fuse on the single 4/0 line from the bus bar to the Lynx. I have seen some people recommend putting a fuse on each battery, as well as the main line to the Lynx.

So....first question, fuses for each battery and the main run or one fuse to rule them all?

I plan to run the batteries, inverter, and a couple solar controllers to the Lynx, but was curious about the 12v system. Currently there are two positive cables running from the batteries connected to the trailer bus bar. The converter is also connected to this same trailer bus bar. Since the trailer bus bar has fuses integrated, I was first planning on just leaving the direct battery connections in place and using the Lynx for only the battery, inverter, and solar connections.

Second question, should I move the trailer bus bar cables from the battery terminal to the Lynx?

Third question, should I run the converter to the Lynx and back to the trailer bus bar?

Thanks in advance for any input.
 
I am planning on installing a Renogy 3000w inverter in my Reflection 324MBS 5th wheel soon and have most things mapped out, but was hoping others could share an opinion on a couple items.

I currently have two 230ah Litime batteries in parallel connected directly together, then out using the factory wiring to the trailer bus bar. As part of the install, I plan to move both batteries to a bus bar, then connect the bus bar to a Lynx distributor. Right now the plan is a 400a T fuse on the single 4/0 line from the bus bar to the Lynx. I have seen some people recommend putting a fuse on each battery, as well as the main line to the Lynx.

So....first question, fuses for each battery and the main run or one fuse to rule them all?

I plan to run the batteries, inverter, and a couple solar controllers to the Lynx, but was curious about the 12v system. Currently there are two positive cables running from the batteries connected to the trailer bus bar. The converter is also connected to this same trailer bus bar. Since the trailer bus bar has fuses integrated, I was first planning on just leaving the direct battery connections in place and using the Lynx for only the battery, inverter, and solar connections.

Second question, should I move the trailer bus bar cables from the battery terminal to the Lynx?

Third question, should I run the converter to the Lynx and back to the trailer bus bar?

Thanks in advance for any input.
I have a 324MBS and did this same thing with the 2000W Renogy with the built in automatic transfer switch. As I was a bit overwhelmed by what was actually what in the factory bus bar I left it all as is and just wired it into my battery connect. I only used fuses inside the distributor, did not add any further. Mind you I have to clean up my wiring a bit this spring, and add an additional disconnect that goes directly to the batteries, but was fairly easy. Hoping to also move my battery connects to the end of the distributor (currently capped with the rubber covers) to try to clean it up a bit and reduce excess wiring. Theres a lot off good builds on here and I got my info from this site and some Youtube videos. But same general concept! Good luck! Get all the right tools and its a breeze
 

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I use 1 400 amp fuse.
I use terminal post instead of the lynx because they were cheaper and saved some room on the install (I really wanted to use the Lynx though). To answer your question though, I moved the 2 battery cables (6 awg) to the terminal posts..

Third question. I used a Multiplus II and took the converter out of the system. It's still in place, just not hooked up. Now I have a backup.
 
Regarding fuses, since I DIY'd my batteries I chose to install MRBF fuses at each battery in addition to a T-Class fuse coming off the positive buss bar. I think many people do not fuse at each battery and they have no issues. It's just a matter of how much money you want to spend for the extra peace of mind. I think you're okay either way.
 
I have a 324MBS and did this same thing with the 2000W Renogy with the built in automatic transfer switch. As I was a bit overwhelmed by what was actually what in the factory bus bar I left it all as is and just wired it into my battery connect. I only used fuses inside the distributor, did not add any further. Mind you I have to clean up my wiring a bit this spring, and add an additional disconnect that goes directly to the batteries, but was fairly easy. Hoping to also move my battery connects to the end of the distributor (currently capped with the rubber covers) to try to clean it up a bit and reduce excess wiring. Theres a lot off good builds on here and I got my info from this site and some Youtube videos. But same general concept! Good luck! Get all the right tools and its a breeze

I appreciate the feedback, especially since we have the same rig. So many slight variations in the years and how they are wired that some videos speak to the grand idea, but not the small details like how our bus bar is wired. Its nice to know what I was thinking works in practice. I will likely leave the converter connected how it is as the wires are actually ran pretty clean, but may move the 6awg from the battery to the Lynx to make it cleaner.

Appreciate the feedback from all.
 
Let me start by saying I like fuses and probably go a little overboard when designing and building projects. Prior experience as a heavy equipment diesel mechanic taught me a few lessons about high amperage battery banks and the devastating effects caused by shorted wiring.

When I upgraded my Reflection, I used terminal fuses on each battery and also fused each circuit coming out of my Lynx Distributor. I ended up going with two 230ah LiTime batteries, each with a 200a BMS, so a 250a terminal fuse on each battery. Since I am using a 3k inverter, I installed a 400a fuse in the Lynx to power my inverter, and various other fuses for each input/output based on wire size. Remember, the fuse protects the wire.

I left the factory bus bar in place for a couple of reasons. First, I like the fact that it has self resetting circuit breakers (I keep a couple spares). I also did my upgrade while under warranty and didn’t want to risk voiding the warranty. Worse case scenario, I could put everything back to factory fairly easily. Power to that bus bar now comes from the Lynx instead of directly from the batteries. At some point, I will run heavier gauge wire from the Lynx to the DC fuse panel inside the trailer, just haven’t gotten to that yet.

I did install a new lithium compatible converter in the front bay (connected to the Lynx) and also left the original in place (circuit breaker off). I have been using this setup for a couple of years and have had no issues. Below is a video I made showing an overview. It shows a wiring diagram a couple different times that helps explain the way I wired everything. In the video, I still have a single 200ah battery, but upgraded to two 230ah batteries about a year ago. When I did that, I adjusted the fuse and cable sizes accordingly.

 
Let me start by saying I like fuses and probably go a little overboard when designing and building projects. Prior experience as a heavy equipment diesel mechanic taught me a few lessons about high amperage battery banks and the devastating effects caused by shorted wiring.

When I upgraded my Reflection, I used terminal fuses on each battery and also fused each circuit coming out of my Lynx Distributor. I ended up going with two 230ah LiTime batteries, each with a 200a BMS, so a 250a terminal fuse on each battery. Since I am using a 3k inverter, I installed a 400a fuse in the Lynx to power my inverter, and various other fuses for each input/output based on wire size. Remember, the fuse protects the wire.

I left the factory bus bar in place for a couple of reasons. First, I like the fact that it has self resetting circuit breakers (I keep a couple spares). I also did my upgrade while under warranty and didn’t want to risk voiding the warranty. Worse case scenario, I could put everything back to factory fairly easily. Power to that bus bar now comes from the Lynx instead of directly from the batteries. At some point, I will run heavier gauge wire from the Lynx to the DC fuse panel inside the trailer, just haven’t gotten to that yet.

I did install a new lithium compatible converter in the front bay (connected to the Lynx) and also left the original in place (circuit breaker off). I have been using this setup for a couple of years and have had no issues. Below is a video I made showing an overview. It shows a wiring diagram a couple different times that helps explain the way I wired everything. In the video, I still have a single 200ah battery, but upgraded to two 230ah batteries about a year ago. When I did that, I adjusted the fuse and cable sizes accordingly.


Actually I found and watched your videos many times. Very informative and detailed so thank you for those.

When moving to dual battery setup, did you daisy chain the batteries or run both to a bus bar and then up to the Lynx? It looks like most don't go the extra step of adding in a bus bar for the batteries unless they do four or more and plan high draw stuff like AC.
 
Regarding fuses, since I DIY'd my batteries I chose to install MRBF fuses at each battery in addition to a T-Class fuse coming off the positive buss bar. I think many people do not fuse at each battery and they have no issues. It's just a matter of how much money you want to spend for the extra peace of mind. I think you're okay either way.
@somohawk I wanted to edit my previous response to clarify something because I feel like I was too casual with the answer...

It is true that many people do not fuse at the battery and we don't hear that they had an issue, and there is a good possibility that you wouldn't either. Many people want to do these projects without spending more than they have to and since we don't hear of many LFP batteries shorting and burning down the "house" a person can get casual about it.

I wanted to follow up because I just responded to this question in another thread and I think that response was more appropriate. The best set of standards we have related to RVs and electrical systems is marine ABCY standards. Personally, I think it would be best if everyone followed those standards. In that respect it would state that every DC positive conductor requires protection. Further, that fuse protection should be within 7" of the conductor. A MRBF fuse is usually a very convenient method to fuse the battery conductor.

After further reflection I just didn't feel I addressed your question appropriately and wanted to correct it. I am certainly no expert. I do follow those standards as best I can. Just wanted to share...
 

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