Looking for solar info

[terryriddle]

One thing I recommend when installing Solar, or any battery system components, is to look at what your final system might look like. This way you can avoid buying components that fit your needs today, yet they don't fit into the bigger picture. Your stated need is a good example: you could probably get by with a 100 Watt Solar panel and a very cheap Solar Charge Controller. However, once you begin to experience the advantages of Solar, your (and your Family's) desires may change. If that happens, you will need to throw out that cheap Solar panel and Solar Charge Controller in order to get the system you really want down the road.

Based on the above: I recommend you install at least one 325 - 400 Watt Residential Solar panel and a Solar Charge Controller that has enough amps to handle a pair of your panels (this allows for an easy future upgrade). The price for a single 325 (+) Watt Residential panel is equivalent to what you would pay for a single 100 - 150 Watt Solar panel from suppliers like Renogy, Furrion, or Newpowa. This should give you what you want while allowing for some cloudy days while you are away from the camper.

To help you with more information on Solar an Lithium batteries, here is a thread with more information:

Affordable-Solar-How-To-Design-and-Install-an-Affordable-Solar-System

I appreciate your input and do understand what your saying. But at 75 and with the type of travel we do, most of the time we are on shore power. However, getting campsites in Banff or Jasper is impossible. For our 50th wedding anniversary, we were booked for a week at both parks and campsites from NC there and back with some other side trips at parks we have visited more than once. then Covid hit and all was canceled in 2020. When we got in Q for Banff this year, there were 43K in Q with Jasper being almost as bad. So our thoughts next year are to travel and at a campsite close to the border, put the RV in their storage, and ensure the refrigerator stays on while we cross into Banff and Jasper while staying at hotels until we are finished, then back to our RV and continue on our trip in the USA. Besides that, I do not want to have to take the battery out of the RV here in NC until we are finished our camping for the year. Hope this makes sense. We have camped since our marriage, camping in a two-person tent on the ground in George Washington Forest in Va. Liz had never camped and my friends said if she stays with me after that, she would stay with me for life. It will be 52 years this year and I have to get her to Banff and Jasper while we have the health we are blessed with and a place she has wanted to see for years, even if we drive there and stay in hotels out and back.

The prewiring should handle a 200-watt panel with a 30-amp inline fuse, right? I am looking at a flex panel with an install like the latest by Tito, which was very slick and avoided holes in the roof. I know that process is not cheap, but it should work as long as the 10awg wire will support the panel. I will get a very good controller as well. Do have one additional question. Does the inline 30amp fuse (max amps on the positive side) go between the panel and controller or between the controller the battery?

[Soundsailor]

I do have a list of approximate electrical load ratings. Notice approximate! With the master switch on, there is the LP detector at .125 amps, illuminated switches at .125, and refrigerator at 3.0 amps... not sure that applies to my double door unit and the two PC fans in the rear to move heat. I can't think of anything else that might be drawing power.

After reviewing the refrigerator manual, this 12 cu ft unit on propane at min 10.5 volts and 15.4 volts max

Assuming you're talking about the stock lead acid battery, your storage capacity is limited to about 50 Amp hours (that assumes a 100 Ah battery, lead acid can be damaged when depleted below 50% of capacity). I'm going to assume that the manual is correct about the frig draw, about 1 amp per hour. Let's say with everything else that you have a total draw of 2 Amps per hour. That's a 24 hour draw of 48 Ah (2 Amps x 24 hours), or just about the capacity of your battery. So you'll need at least 48 Ah per day from your solar system. While I agree with @SolarPoweredRV about looking to the future, in your case an inexpensive panel and controller may be all you'll ever need. Since you won't be using it that often, you might get by with a suitcase system (see https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFQVB9M which if you shop well can be had for under $300), that would spare you having to mount the panels on the roof.

[Soundsailor]

I appreciate your input and do understand what your saying. But at 75 and with the type of travel we do, most of the time we are on shore power. However, getting campsites in Banff or Jasper is impossible. For our 50th wedding anniversary, we were booked for a week at both parks and campsites from NC there and back with some other side trips at parks we have visited more than once. then Covid hit and all was canceled in 2020. When we got in Q for Banff this year, there were 43K in Q with Jasper being almost as bad. So our thoughts next year are to travel and at a campsite close to the border, put the RV in their storage, and ensure the refrigerator stays on while we cross into Banff and Jasper while staying at hotels until we are finished, then back to our RV and continue on our trip in the USA. Besides that, I do not want to have to take the battery out of the RV here in NC until we are finished our camping for the year. Hope this makes sense. We have camped since our marriage, camping in a two-person tent on the ground in George Washington Forest in Va. Liz had never camped and my friends said if she stays with me after that, she would stay with me for life. It will be 52 years this year and I have to get her to Banff and Jasper while we have the health we are blessed with and a place she has wanted to see for years, even if we drive there and stay in hotels out and back.

The prewiring should handle a 200-watt panel with a 30-amp inline fuse, right? I am looking at a flex panel with an install like the latest by Tito, which was very slick and avoided holes in the roof. I know that process is not cheap, but it should work as long as the 10awg wire will support the panel. I will get a very good controller as well. Do have one additional question. Does the inline 30amp fuse (max amps on the positive side) go between the panel and controller or between the controller the battery?

Yes, the pre-wiring would handle a 200-watt panel. You may want fuses both between the panels and the controller and the controller and the battery, two different circuits. Just be aware that the flex panels do not have as high production as the rigid types.

[SolarPoweredRV]

I appreciate your input and do understand what your saying. But at 75 and with the type of travel we do, most of the time we are on shore power. However, getting campsites in Banff or Jasper is impossible. For our 50th wedding anniversary, we were booked for a week at both parks and campsites from NC there and back with some other side trips at parks we have visited more than once. then Covid hit and all was canceled in 2020. When we got in Q for Banff this year, there were 43K in Q with Jasper being almost as bad. So our thoughts next year are to travel and at a campsite close to the border, put the RV in their storage, and ensure the refrigerator stays on while we cross into Banff and Jasper while staying at hotels until we are finished, then back to our RV and continue on our trip in the USA. Besides that, I do not want to have to take the battery out of the RV here in NC until we are finished our camping for the year. Hope this makes sense. We have camped since our marriage, camping in a two-person tent on the ground in George Washington Forest in Va. Liz had never camped and my friends said if she stays with me after that, she would stay with me for life. It will be 52 years this year and I have to get her to Banff and Jasper while we have the health we are blessed with and a place she has wanted to see for years, even if we drive there and stay in hotels out and back.

The prewiring should handle a 200-watt panel with a 30-amp inline fuse, right? I am looking at a flex panel with an install like the latest by Tito, which was very slick and avoided holes in the roof. I know that process is not cheap, but it should work as long as the 10awg wire will support the panel. I will get a very good controller as well. Do have one additional question. Does the inline 30amp fuse (max amps on the positive side) go between the panel and controller or between the controller the battery?

Yes the 10ga pre-wiring will handle a 200 Watt Solar Panel. You should look at the amperage of the panel you are installing and use a fuse closer to the max amps of the panel (plus 10-15%) instead of the 30 amp fuse. You should also fuse the line from the controller to the battery (same fuse size).

The 200 Watt panel should also meet your requirements. I would however test the Solar system before you begin your trip by running the refrigerator in your storage area for a few days. Freeze an ice cube tray and place pennies on each ice cube and place it back in the freezer. After a few days, if the pennies are still on top of the ice cubes, your freezer kept running. I would recommend not having any fresh food in the refrigerator while you are gone however (just in case). Your condiments and other quasi perishable items should be okay, even if the fridge failed for a few hours.

By-the-way, congratulations on such a long marriage !!!!

[SolarPoweredRV]

Assuming you're talking about the stock lead acid battery, your storage capacity is limited to about 50 Amp hours (that assumes a 100 Ah battery, lead acid can be damaged when depleted below 50% of capacity). I'm going to assume that the manual is correct about the frig draw, about 1 amp per hour. Let's say with everything else that you have a total draw of 2 Amps per hour. That's a 24 hour draw of 48 Ah (2 Amps x 24 hours), or just about the capacity of your battery. So you'll need at least 48 Ah per day from your solar system. While I agree with @SolarPoweredRV about looking to the future, in your case an inexpensive panel and controller may be all you'll ever need. Since you won't be using it that often, you might get by with a suitcase system (see https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFQVB9M which if you shop well can be had for under $300), that would spare you having to mount the panels on the roof.

The 48ah calculation is correct, however, your refrigerator will be running from the Solar panel while the Sun is shining so, assuming your battery gets at least an 80% charge during the day, it only has to power the fridge at night, roughly 24ah from the battery.

The only problem with suitcase systems is they tend to grow legs. And they are Pricey!

[terryriddle]

Assuming you're talking about the stock lead acid battery, your storage capacity is limited to about 50 Amp hours (that assumes a 100 Ah battery, lead acid can be damaged when depleted below 50% of capacity). I'm going to assume that the manual is correct about the frig draw, about 1 amp per hour. Let's say with everything else that you have a total draw of 2 Amps per hour. That's a 24 hour draw of 48 Ah (2 Amps x 24 hours), or just about the capacity of your battery. So you'll need at least 48 Ah per day from your solar system. While I agree with @SolarPoweredRV about looking to the future, in your case an inexpensive panel and controller may be all you'll ever need. Since you won't be using it that often, you might get by with a suitcase system (see https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFQVB9M which if you shop well can be had for under $300), that would spare you having to mount the panels on the roof.

I have looked at the suitcase kits and like them, but no way to secure them from walking away while in storage. Sorry to say!
So I'm looking at a 175 flex panel with a 30A charge controller. I will place the 30A inline fuse on the positive side between the controller and the battery. I will also look at disconnects for the panel to avoid impacts to the controller when the battery is removed after the camping system. One individual also recommended a 15A inline fuse between the panel and the controller, I assume also on the positive side??

[terryriddle]

Thanks!! We know each other too well to start all over, especially in today's world. I feel for our six grandkids.

[KGoesele]

This question is off topic a bit, but is Solar related, and I need an answer.

I have 3 x 195 Watt Solar panels on the roof of my 22 MLE XLS and Two 550 CCA Interstate Deep Cycle batteries. I did purchase a 3,000 Watt Inverter from GoPower and installation kit, but not installed yet $$$.

My question is really a Yes or No question. Can I travel to my destination using my RV batteries powered by the 570 watts Solar to power my RV Refrigerator, rather then using Propane?

When I get to my destination I would use my Honda Generator until I get my Inverter installed or plug into shore power. I’m not real adept at all these Amps, Volts, Watts information yet. Thank you in advance!

[SolarPoweredRV]

This question is off topic a bit, but is Solar related, and I need an answer.

I have 3 x 195 Watt Solar panels on the roof of my 22 MLE XLS and Two 550 CCA Interstate Deep Cycle batteries. I did purchase a 3,000 Watt Inverter from GoPower and installation kit, but not installed yet $$$.

My question is really a Yes or No question. Can I travel to my destination using my RV batteries powered by the 570 watts Solar to power my RV Refrigerator, rather then using Propane?

When I get to my destination I would use my Honda Generator until I get my Inverter installed or plug into shore power. I’m not real adept at all these Amps, Volts, Watts information yet. Thank you in advance!

First, you don't say if your batteries are 6 volt or 12 volt batteries (it makes a difference because a pair of 6v batteries can [generally] store more energy).

To answer your question, we really need to understand how the Propane/Electric refrigerator works...

Your fridge operates off of Propane, or 120 volt electricity. It uses the Propane or electricity to generate heat that heats up ammonia to create a gas, as the ammonia gas cools down it creates cold, this cold is transferred to the inside of the fridge through the fins at the top of the refrigerator and a "cold plate" at the back of the freezer. With Propane there is an actual flame heating up the ammonia, when the fridge is operating on electricity, there is a "resistive" heating element (just like the coils on an electric stove) that heats the ammonia. Resistive heating elements are not that energy efficient, consequently, they use a lot of energy to create their heat.

With all that being said, you probably won't be able to run your refrigerator off of electricity with your current pair of 12 volt (presumably), Lead Acid batteries (even on Sunny days with the help of your Solar panels).

If you wanted to upgrade your system to be able to operate your fridge using your onboard battery bank and Inverter, you would probably need a minimum of 600 amp hours of Lithium batteries and very sunny days to cover a long day's drive. Like I said, resistive heating is very inefficient and uses a lot of energy.

[Soundsailor]

This question is off topic a bit, but is Solar related, and I need an answer.

I have 3 x 195 Watt Solar panels on the roof of my 22 MLE XLS and Two 550 CCA Interstate Deep Cycle batteries. I did purchase a 3,000 Watt Inverter from GoPower and installation kit, but not installed yet $$$.

My question is really a Yes or No question. Can I travel to my destination using my RV batteries powered by the 570 watts Solar to power my RV Refrigerator, rather then using Propane?

When I get to my destination I would use my Honda Generator until I get my Inverter installed or plug into shore power. I’m not real adept at all these Amps, Volts, Watts information yet. Thank you in advance!

Which frig do you have? You mention propane but I'm thinking the 22 MLE XLS came with a 12-volt frig. If it is the 12-volt frig you should be OK, if you have the propane/110-volt frig you'll need to run it in propane mode.